Chapter 28: The Art of Woman Spreading
Chapter 28: The Art of Woman Spreading
Doll Dealbook took a little break, but now we're back.
If last year heralded the debut of Italian Widow Summer, then let this spring (and later this summer) be all about the art of women spreading. Wear your clothes in shapes so unwieldy, they change the narrative of personal space and how people perceive you. Let this serve as a state of the union for summer 2024: take up space.
Put your little slip dresses and slinky bodycon pieces away and instead embrace all things big, bold, and a little bit weird. Fashion has become extreme again. With bizarre, bulbous silhouettes that maybe make you look like you are floating (or, at the very least, like you inhabit a different universe with a non-humanoid form). Who needs AI and digital avatars to shape shift when you can wear a puff sleeve dress that’s so large it prevents people from sitting down next to you? Or maybe, a dress so wide you have to turn sideways when going through narrow hallways. It could also just be a bow.
Why don’t you…stuff a tulle coat full of fake flowers so grand that the stems stick out and poke everyone who gets the least bit close to you…
We must reclaim our space through clothing. Let this summer be the time to indulge going forward.
How to woman spread:
Puff Dresses
This is one of the easiest ways to dress big. There are a few brands I gravitate towards—Vaquera, Cecilie Bahnsen, Simone Rocha, Taylor Dorry, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Selkie. Sister Jane also has some slightly more affordable options. Think: big, puffy layers, massive sleeves and chunky layers of tulle.
I’m a big fan of this massive white Simone Rocha mini dress, it’s quite blob-like. There are also a few of the Vaquera party style dresses discounted on The Real Real right now. After the recent sample sale, I now have four of these in my closet (in different colorsways/materials)! It’s one of the original woman spreading dresses.
Enormous Skirts
This is the tangiential sister to the big puff dress. One I’ve been very into lately. I think Comme des Garçons is, and always will be, king of this. But any tulle skirt will do, and anything with lots of fabric also works well. Add a petticoat or crinoline underneath to increase the volume. Wear them with literally anything. A t-shirt. Sweater. Tank top. It's instant accented formality without the high lift.
Free People has been steadily pumping out big tulle skirts made of dreams (below) but there are also so many great CDG gems discounted right now, like the black puffball skirt below.
Hats and Tiaras
Hats are one of fall 2024’s biggest trends, but this is something we’ve been working up to for quite some time. Statement hats have been dominating street style main character wardrobes for years, and those who know know, a hat immediately increases the chaotic good energy of an outfit.
I love a good vintage hat. Especially a sequin one, or a vintage tiara a la Chappell Roan.
I implore you to find not just vintage tiaras, but antique ones, like this 100+ year one for just over $100. For summer, a quirky vintage straw hat is your best bet. There are so many different options to suit your vibe, in particular, I’m into the realm of this niche 1980s Christian Lacroix sculpted hat.
Subverted Forms
I really believe we will see more and more forms of body modification in fashion—through panniers, bustles, corsets and other pieces that can easily be sourced and worn under your outfits to re-shape them. We’ve seen it recently with Margiela’s couture collection and Shayne Oliver’s Jean Paul Gaultier collaboration.
For the bold only, I reccomend the latter, one of the JPG dresses which has built-in, removable butt and hip pads. I recently wore the green version over a vintage slip dress and matching robe. I think it’s so fun and shocking to layer over and under different pieces. (More on that later in a subsequent newsletter…) But for an affordable play on the look, simply buy a $20 bustle from amazon and add it to one of your existing pieces.
Platform Shoes
I have felt the targeted wrath against platform shoes as of late, as if the narrow, skinny vintage-looking heels everyone has suddenly switched to are holier than thou. And yet, platforms will always be there for me. They give you height, stability and take up space without compromising.
Some of my absolute favorite platforms of all time (Noir Kei Ninomiya x Repetto) are currently discounted. These ~$60 Delia*s platforms in bright cherry red also really speak to me.
Another recent favorite: the Vivienne Westwood Rocking Horse ballerina platforms in limited edition pink!!! You can only get them by ordering through Vivienne Westwood World’s End. But you can also order the white or black ones from the website.
Until next time dolls,
Kristen
P.S… Next month my first interiors book is out next month, all about maximalism. It covers the history of maximalist interiors and gives you tips on how to transform your own space.
+ I wrote a book on New York fashion, which was recently released! Order it here. My other book is all about the Met Gala. Order it here.
BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3
