Obsessed: Vintage Judith Leiber Cat Bags
I went down a rabbit hole and spoke to Judith Leiber's museum curator.
As you may or may not know, I collect cat themed fashion (Miu Miu, Gucci, Loewe to name a few—let me know if you ever want a post on my collection).
And yet, as I was searching the depths of the internet for comparable cat-shaped clutches I didn’t already own, I came across a bevy of decadent, delicious Judith Leiber crystal sleeping cat bags, produced in the 1980s - 1990s. To say I was mesmerized when I saw Judith Leiber’s spellbinding cat minaudières would be an understatement.
Lucky for me, a pink cat was heavily discounted on The Real Real and I had a site credit. She is perfect: covered in a metaphorical blanketed quilt of crystals arranged in shapes of flowers, clovers, peace signs, zig zags, stars and dated ‘Oct 26 1990’ on the back. Topped with a sculptural bow, she’s lined in buttery gold leather and comes with the label’s signature gold comb, mirror and coin purse. In my research, I wasn’t able to find any other Judith Leiber bags with dates, which leads me to believe mine was a custom piece, making it all the more special.
Thus began my obsession. I’ve since collected a few other vintage Judith Leiber keepsakes: a matching sleeping cat belt and two exotic skin bags with real semi-precious stones (onyx, lapis, quartz) all from the brand, each of which cost under $100 (!) secondhand.
But let’s take a moment to examine the influence and influx of Judith Leiber bags in our recent times. It’s impossible not to notice the rise of the minaudière in recent years, with JW Anderson, Valentino and Gucci all creating their own iconic, viral versions. They’ve always been around. But on a chilly Monday evening earlier this month, at Caviar Kaspia uptown, no less than three people carried glittering Judith Leiber clutches to Linda Fargo’s birthday party. June Ambrose had a little bird, Linda wore a heart, and I myself carried the aforementioned crystal cat bag. I think this unofficially signals the return of Judith Leiber as an object of fashion joy and a serious it-bag contender that speaks deeply to the label’s serious fashion history roots.
We need joy right now and crystal animal-shaped Judith Leiber minaudières certainly inspires that. And in a dark void dominated by male creative directors, I think it’s pretty powerful to carry a daring statement from one of the most iconic female founded accessory brands.
While new Judith Leiber bags are undoubtedly incredible, I have a soft spot for the vintage minaudières, which can also be found for as low as $500 (versus $5,000 for current season) if you know where to look and if you check frequently for discounts and sales. I especially adore the cats, which come in a striking array of patterns and colorways.
In honor of my new obsession, I also spoke with Ann Fristoe Stewart, director and curator of The Leiber Collection, the museum in East Hampton, New York open to the public. I wanted to get her insights on the vintage Judith Leiber market.
KB: What are some of the rarest vintage Judith Leiber bags?
AFS: Three of the rarest vintage bags are:
1. The Gerson Leiber inspired minaudière – Judith Leiber created handbags that were inspired by some of the modernist artists of her day that she admired, like Sonia Delaunay, Piet Mondrian, Georges Braque, and others, including her husband, Gerson Leiber. This minaudière was inspired by Gerson’s painting ‘The Much Admired’ from 1991, which Judith released in 1992. We searched for many years for this piece and never saw it offered for sale. It wasn’t until the marvelous Joanna Rose from NYC heard that Judith wished she had this bag and donated it to The Leiber Foundation that we could display the piece next to the painting that inspired it
2. The Judith Leiber x Faith Ringgold minaudières – these magnificent and rare minaudières were created as a collaboration between Judith Leiber and artist Faith Ringgold in the 1980s. These stunning pieces are inspired by the vibrant storytelling of Faith Ringgold’s powerful Story Quilts, ‘The Street’ (1985) and ‘The Purple Quilt’ (1986). Judith always wished these were in her collection, but we do not have them. We are actively seeking these two minaudières to add to The Leiber Collection. If anyone has them and would like to donate them to The Judith and Gerson Leiber Foundation, please contact Director Ann Fristoe Stewart at info@leibercollection.org.
3. The New York Skyline minaudière, featuring the Chrysler Building and the World Trade Center, is a cherished piece. It seldom appears at auction, and when it does, it is expensive. Joan Rivers owned one of these and proudly carried it to numerous NYC events and galas.
KB: What are some other interesting pieces from the brand that vintage collectors should look for?
AFS: Some of her most iconic minaudières…
The Tomato—When Judith Leiber designed her tomato minaudière, she was inspired by her vegetable garden at her country house in the East Hampton hamlet of Springs, on Long Island, NY. It was such a unique design that it captured the ladies' imaginations, and they became obsessed. It is a perfect example of her style of mixing sophistication and whimsy with a dose of humor. She always kept the ladies smiling!
The Swan – Judith’s Swan minaudière appeared in an episode of Sex and the City, and to this day, people ask about it when they come into the museum. It is one of Judith’s most iconic bags and a beloved representation of her design style.
The Peacock – Her peacock minaudière was her final design, created in 2004. As the peacock personifies grace and dignity, much like royalty, one cannot help but notice the brilliance of this choice as her final design.
KB: How can collectors identify a true vintage Judith Leiber piece?
AFS: There is a certain authenticity to the sound of opening or closing a vintage or classic Judith Leiber handbag. It has been equated to the sound of the opening or closing of a door of a very fine automobile.
Collectors should always consider the craftsmanship and the materials used. Judith Leiber always used the most extraordinary skins or fabrics in her designs, and always used Swarovski crystals because of their unique dazzling sparkle. Look for meticulous detailing and be mindful of the inside and the outside. The inside of a Judith Leiber handbag is perfection. It includes fine materials, impeccable stitching, and always Judith’s signature. When Judith sold her handbags, she always included a comb, a mirror, and a change purse.
KB: Are there any huge differences between the new pieces vs pieces dating from the '90s and earlier?
AFS: The company still honors Judith’s legacy and creates in her signature style where sophistication meets whimsy. She made bags of impeccable crafts-‘woman’-ship, and the company continues that superior mastery today.
The differences lie partly in the customer base. The company designs for different generations of fashionistas and pays attention to their interests and obsessions.
Where Judith was inspired by vegetables such as tomatoes, asparagus, and eggplants, the company now creates ice cream cones, pizza, french fries, and more. Judith drew inspiration from modern art, whereas the company now is influenced by contemporary artists and by Pop Art. Judith designed a classical cello, and they created a super fun electric guitar.
KB: Can you share any specific history about my vintage Judith Leiber cat bag?
AFS: This is a very beautiful Judith Leiber Sleeping Cat Minaudière. Judith originally designed this piece in 1983, but re-released it with different decorations over the years.
Yours is very unique as I have never seen a date on one of Judith’s designs. She personalized bags with the collector’s name, so I imagine she personalized this with a date of importance to its collector.
There are Roman Numerals on the Gerson Leiber inspired minaudieres, which represent the number it is in the series, which is also unique, but I have never seen the date on a piece. Interestingly, the decoration is reminiscent of a pug that Judith designed in 1990.
(editor’s note: a dog-shaped Judith Leiber is now at the top of my list…look at the chunky shape of this one on eBay!?)
KB: Anything else you want to add?
AFS: The beading of the bags began not as much of an artistic endeavor but as a matter of necessity. The plating on the first metal bag, the Chatelaine, was so severely flawed that Judy realized some disguise was required.
She decided that covering the bag with crystals would hide and enhance; thus, her entire beaded handbag business was born. Her handbags are not merely utilitarian but are beloved works of Art that are adored and collected by many.
Until next time dolls,
Kristen
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