Chapter 29: Exploring Tom Ford's Maximalist Archives
In honor of my new book on Tom Ford, out today.
In case you missed it, I wrote a book on Tom Ford, which is officially out today. Order it here.
One of my favorite parts of writing this book was exploring the totally intrepid duality of Ford, who often gets typecast as a minimalist but at heart, has his own wildly opulent and decadent maximalist moments that pull from his background as a Texan who has also lived in New Mexico and who idolizes the inimitable Lisa Eisner.
While much of his early work for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent may be considered tame compared to the Tom Ford aesthetic of today, Ford brought forward a new kind of out-there glamour that heavily riffed on 1970s style at a time when copious designer houses were focused on streamlined designs with little ornamentation and even less prints and colors.
What’s also important to understand about Ford’s work is his obsessive attention to detail, as well as just how hands on he gets. Take, for instance, the fact that in 2004, as the creative director of Gucci, he personally shaved a “G” into the pubic hair of model Carmen Kass (!) for an ad, adding definition with an eyebrow pencil.
I only own two Tom Fords piece in my wardrobe; both are bags. I bought the iconic one below as a present to myself after finishing the book. I wanted something that truly represented the unique lens of Tom Ford: the opposite of subtle and totally Tom Ford-ian.
Shocking, raw and deliciously crass, it’s the “Pussy Power” bag from fall 2018, also one of the first Tom Ford fashion shows I ever attended. The photo doesn’t do the glittery masterpiece justice.


In honor of my book release today, these are the five other Tom Ford archival pieces I would love to add to my wardrobe one day—from his work at Gucci, YSL and his namesake brand.
Sequined Molly Jersey, Tom Ford Fall 2014


There’s a best offer option available, on eBay, by the way.
I had this saved on my Real Real favorites and it kept getting more and more discounted until it sold for about $500. I regret not getting it. This legendary, underrated piece is key to the muse relationship between Ford, Beyoncé and Jay Z.
Beyoncé as a muse stemmed from Ford’s friendship with her husband, Jay-Z, who was one of Ford’s first, most devoted menswear customers when the brand launched. Did you know Beyoncé also walked as a model in his debut womenswear show for his namesake line?
Jay-Z and Tom Ford were so inspired by each other, in fact, that Jay-Z’s 2013 album Magna Carta Holy Grail dedicated an entire track to Ford on the album, repeatedly rapping his name in the chorus: “I don’t pop molly, I rock Tom Ford”. Ford was so inspired by the song he wanted to create a piece that would have icon status. What came next was a sequined dress referencing the jersey Jay-Z wore while performing the song. The word “Molly” crossed out beneath the number and a Tom Ford logo added. It was shown on the runway and worn by Beyoncé when she performed in 2014.
Pink Breastplate, Tom Ford Spring 2020


Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Doll Dealbook to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.