There isn’t an ounce of a doubt in my mind that 20 years after her debut, Miley Cyrus’s character Hannah Montana would have loved the fall 2026 runways. Especially Stella McCartney’s crystal studded jeans and “my dad is a rockstar” tank top (hello, Billy Ray Cyrus, who actually starred as Hannah Montana’s real dad in the show). Her style is a visual manifestation and representation of fun with a capital F, through the girl’s gaze.

Subscribe now

For generations of us, Hannah Montana represented a niche OG live-for-the-fantasy maximalist who dressed for herself. She accessorized with beautiful reckless abandon, piling on the tiaras, statement necklaces, belts, bangles and chandelier earrings. Her alter ego closet, featured prominently in the show, was a safe space for transformation from girl next door to girl rock star.

More often than not, when I find an iconic vintage accessory, like the Miu Miu spring 2004 sequin bandana necklace I bought this weekend, I think to myself, Hannah Montana would wear this. I thought about it when I bought a 1950s pink ostrich boa from an eBay seller based in Hollywood, and I thought the same when I picked up a late ‘90s fuchsia fur coat from Marni. In fact, some of my favorite runway collections of all time, like Miu Miu spring 2006 and Resort 2011, at heart, feel deeply Hannah Montana-coded. But perhaps most interestingly, in a social media dominant era where we’re all aware of being perceived and private self vs. public self (a topic that even Miuccia Prada touched on for fall)—Hannah Montana’s style duality should be studied.

There is no other pre-teen character in the history of television who both emulated one of Bjork’s most iconic, groundbreaking outfits via the infamous swan dress, while also riffing on real life pop culture icons including Michael Jackson à la her single pink fingerless glove. Multiple costume designers worked on the various seasons of Hannah Montana including Christopher Lawrence, Dahlia Foroutan and Catherine Wagner. You get the best of both worlds.

It’s no wonder the ‘Hannah Montana’ 20th Anniversary Special got 6.3 million views in its first three days. Miley Cyrus also just released her music video for "Younger You," a tribute to her beloved Hannah Montana days.

If 2025 was Pucci Girl Summer, let this be the year of Hannah Montana Summer.

9 ways to dress like Hannah Montana IRL »»

Wearing your dress the “wrong way”

Hannah Montana’s approach to wearing dresses is one of the most interesting styling lessons one can take from the show. In the early 2000s, wearing dresses over pants wasn’t uncommon. But why not layer it even more? With jeans and a matching denim jacket, or very importantly, a belt. Also: the strapless dress over a t-shirt. Preferably, a vintage Betsey Johnson prom dress with a colorful t-shirt. Bonus points if polka dot or animal print is involved.

Read more

I’m talking impossible-to-find Prada runway headpieces, rare Jean Paul Gaultier for shockingly good prices, one-of-a-kind vintage jewelry pieces and midcentury French couture-level wonders. While everyone else was lining up to buy the same pony hair flats at Chanel (undoubtedly beautiful, yes, but ubiquitous, non?) I was crawling around the obscure, charming vintage stores and off the beaten path boutiques that make shopping in Paris so magical.

Read my Paris Fashion Week diaries here.

Here is every single thing I bought in Paris, with links to similar pieces where possible:

Rare Runway Prada Hats & Headpieces

I purchased the burgundy feather newsboy cap as well as the wrapped purple velvet mini turban baseball cap from the Prada fall 2024 runway collection, both for insane prices considering they retailed into the thousands. I collect old Miu Miu (check out my book here) and old Prada and these pieces feel true to the older, weirdo chic maximalist aesthetic.

They are literally impossible to find online, I don’t recall even seeing them in the Prada store…or seeing anyone in the wild ever wear them. I can’t believe I have them. Could they actually be the pieces styled in the show? I consider them collector items.

I was also shocked to see the mysterious Prada scarf sunglasses from the spring 2025 runway—which I had to buy. I saw someone post on Instagram that only three of them were produced, and someone else said they’re impossible to find. I’m not sure if either one is accurate. But I do know I’ve never seen them anywhere else. I wore them to the Miu Miu show the next day.

I did not find these icons at the main Prada store; here’s where I found these amazing pieces…

Read more

I just got back from one of the best fashion months in recent memory.

So, while I work on musing about what I shopped ~exclusively for subscribers~ including rare archival Prada hats that are impossible to find anywhere, vintage JPG and more, here are my diary entries on PFW.

Subscribe now

Day 1: Emerging designers and vintage shopping ~ read it here.

Day 2: the best vintage shopping of my life, and the worst model fall I’ve ever seen ~ read it here.

Day 3: horses and dancing on the runway ~ read it here.

Day 4 ~ Schiaparelli, archival shoes and more ~ read it here.

Day 5: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto & Cat Shoes ~ Read it here.

Day 6: Comme day - the BEST DAY ~ read it here.

Day 7: The new JPG, McQueen and Beyond ~ Read it here.

Day 8 & 9: Miu Miu and how fashion got obsessed with forests ~ Read it here.

Until next time dolls,

Kristen

P.S… Check out my books:

• Maximalist interiors

• New York style

• Tom Ford

• Miu Miu

• The Met Gala

• Zendaya

• Lady Gaga

Pre-order my upcoming book released in May… New York Style Icons.

BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3

Subscribe now

With each great outfit (and each failure—because there are a lot of those!) I learn new styling lessons and formulas that I add to my sartorial arsenal to repeat for a lifetime of fashion experimentation. I believe in personal style as a constant evolution, and I am always learning about myself and what I like to wear—what works and what doesn’t. The best thing about getting dressed for an event like fashion week is the unfettered surprise when something works in a way that you didn’t think it would.

I’ve never done this on paper, so to speak! So I thought it would be fun to decode exactly what I wore, where every single piece is from, the lessons and formulas I loved, and some of the behind-the-scenes experiences of 12 favorite looks from NYFW this season and PFW last season. As I write this, I’m simultaneously packing for Paris again. Read on for what I wore, plus a few shoppable links too.

Tony Le Tigre

Formula: animal print coat + animal print bag + feather hat

Concept: This is probably my most simple outfit process of the bunch. I always love animal print, but even more so if it’s in a quirky, clash-y, fantasy-fueled color. Like bright orange tiger print or pink leopard print.

Mixing different animal prints together is my current favorite activity, and I knew I wanted to wear both this coat and this bag, at least once. Why not put them together? The coat got a lot of questions. I found it for ~90% off at the Bottega Veneta outlet. It’s Matthieu Blazy-era and I thought it was funny (read: great) that he is also doing tiger print for Chanel so recently. The Prada feather hood, which I also wear as a collar, is a fashion week favorite.

Clothing: Bottega Veneta resort 2023 tiger coat, Marni skirt, Monki striped shirt

Accessories: Vintage Dior Gambler bag, assorted Dollchunk rings, vintage cameo necklace, Prada fall 2017 feather hat

Shoes: Mid-2010s Miu Miu glitter sock boots

Extreme colorblocking

Formula: pocket vest + pocket skirt + tie dye

Concept: I wanted to do something that felt like a weirdo version of the ultra-utilitarian trend that’s going around. Enter: this Miu Miu vest and Prada skirt I’ve had in my closet for ages, but never paired together. Big pocket energy.

I was also going to a Miu Miu event this night, and given it’s my forever favorite first love of fashion (and my most collected brand) I usually try to wear something from the label.

I’ve been really inspired by pops of Lite Brite-esque, obnoxiously bold, in your face color. Hence the tie-dye tights, bag and matching gloves. I was originally wearing an orange Emma Brewin faux fur hat, but after the Zankov show I popped into the City Opera Thrift shop (highly recommend) and found this 1960s mink hat with a little pompom. I thought it transformed me into a sort of Wes Anderson character.

Clothing: Miu Miu fall 2014 vest, old Prada nylon pocket skirt, Acne Studios sweater

Accessories: Chanel Flower Power Boy Bag and matching gloves, Welovecolors tights, old Prada necklace, Dollchunk tooth necklace

Shoes: Marc Jacobs x Dr. Martens Kiki boots

Puffer princess

Formula: Big floor-length puffer coat + vintage beaded scarf + vintage hat

I was absolutely freezing in my vest from the previous day, so I knew I wanted to be warm today. I scrapped my pre-planned outfit and chose one of my warmest coats: this insane floor-length Junya Watanabe puffer. It’s quite distinct and I’ve been photographed in it a lot.

So, I felt like I wanted to transform it in a new way. I just finished reorganizing my scarf collection. A lightbulb went off in my head to add a little zest: I got this sheer, vintage beaded scarf from Beacon’s Closet years ago. Amazingly, it layered perfectly and the weight of the tassels kept it on all day without fuss. The amusing thing is that people thought it was part of the coat. I would plan to layer an embellished scarf over a technical jacket or puffer coat again—the contrast is striking. I also wore my little mink hat purchased the day before.

Clothing: Junya Watanabe coat, Monki sweater dress, Saks Potts glitter pants

Accessories: Vintage beaded scarf, 1960s mink hat, antique mourning rings, Loewe Spirited Away bag

Shoes: Simone Rocha platform brogues

Rhinestone Cowgirl

Formula: statement coat + matching bag + tiara + cowboy boots

Concept: I started with two of my obvious staples: tiaras and oddball fashion cowboy boots. I’ve also recently been obsessed with intense matching; à la gloves to bag, coat to bag, skirt to shirt. I only recently came across the matching cow pasture bag for this epic Moschino coat that I got at the sample sale a few years ago. I knew both would be perfect to juxtapose a winter-y New York day.

The heavy black sweater and skirt kept me warm and served as an unconventional base layer without being so obvious as Heattech leggings and turtlenecks.

Clothing: Moschino Jeremy Scott era fall 2021 coat, Prada spring 2016 menswear car sweater, Comme des Garçons Girl skirt

Accessories: Moschino Jeremy Scott era matching bag, Dollchunk rings, assorted vintage lockets, antique portrait miniature and perfume vial, Miu Miu spring 2016 tiara

Shoes: Miu Miu resort 2016 cowboy boots

Pink & Feathered

Formula: feather jacket + sequins + maxi skirt

Concept: my love for feathers is eternal and I also predicted them to be one of the top trends of 2026. This Chantal Thomass jacket was one of my favorite things I bought last year and I also thought it would be perfect for the shows I had scheduled for Valentine’s Day. Plus, sequins and feathers are a top combination in my mind.

I usually like to do a nod to the holiday in the form of ultra expressive color. Deep reds, bold pinks, a touch of black. I also wore my Gucci heart clutch (the same bag I eloped/got married in).

Clothing: Vintage Chantal Thomass fall 1990 jacket, Saks Potts sequin shirt, Comme des Garçons skirt

Accessories: Vintage Chanel Gripoix necklace, vintage Christian Lacroix gloves, Gucci Aria heart bag, Miu Miu 2010s glitter sunglasses

Shoes: Simone Rocha furry beaded flats

Detached Debutant

Formula: Vintage jacket + rhinestone collar & tiara + full skirt + prize ribbon

Concept: Now we’re diving into the outfits I wore in Paris last season. At the time, I was working on an in-depth print feature about debutantes (read it here) and listening to a lot of Hole and Courtney Love, which I think both contributed as inspiration to this look. I was also thinking a lot about the kinderwhore aesthetic, princesscore, and the traditional debutante look merged with punk.

I collect a lot of old Prada and old Miu Miu and a secret for you is that some of the vintage Koos Van der Akker jackets have the same vibe, for a fraction of the cost.

Clothing: Vintage Koos Van der Akker jacket, Shu/ShuTong skirt

Accessories: Miu Miu tiara, Area choker, vintage cherub earrings, Dollchunk rings and bag (available soon), Iris Apfel bangle, Chloe sunglasses, upcycled prize ribbon

Shoes: Caroline Hu x Adidas

Read more

Subscribe now

The same work of art once witnessed and appreciated by Joan Miró, Marcel Duchamp, Isamu Noguchi and Piet Mondrian is celebrating its 100-year anniversary in 2026.

The miniature spectacle was once an interactive performance that captivated audiences for as long as two hours at a time. Calder was reportedly inspired by his brief time as a student working for the National Police Gazette where, in 1925, he was assigned to sketch the action of the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus. The Circus would later go on to serve as inspiration for Calder’s future innovative, kinetic sculptures.

Calder is undoubtedly widely known for his fashion influence, with Gianni Versace, Mila Schön, et al citing his work. He also crafted over 1,800 earrings, bracelets, necklaces and brooches in his lifetime - but that’s a newsletter for another day. The enchanting fabric scraps, wire, wooden corks, bits of string, leather, paper, cut sheet metal, and buttons that make up the fashionable outfits in Calder’s Circus are worthy of a closer look.

Outfits & accessorizing inspired by Alexander Calder’s Circus, 100 years later…

Antique Boas, Striped Scarves, Bowler Hats & Triple Layers

This is my absolute favorite figure from Alexander Calder’s Circus. The details are heavenly and there’s a lot to pull from. He is Calder’s “Clown” and wears patchwork, striped, mismatched pants. The things I’d also wear:

• The messy, chunky fringed shawl-like collar. It makes me think of two wardrobe heroes. The first being antique ostrich feather boas from early Hollywood (I have a pink one on the way from L.A.), and the second being hand-knit loopy collars or textural wonders made with speciality yarns like this piece. I would drape any of these over a statement coat.

• I love the appearance of the undone, striped tie or scarf, especially in peppermint hues of red and white. Remember when Prada did striped skinny scarves with big pailettes on one tail end? That’s what this reminds me of. There’s something incredibly nostalgic about a red and white striped scarf, like this tiny hand-knit version. It’s the kind of thing a parent buys for a child’s first winter sledding debut.

• The 1920s bowler hat is the epitome of personality. I actually think a true antique version of this in 2026 would be pretty interesting if styled in the right way.

• Notice the smart triple layering effect going on: red coat, blue coat, tan coat, collar. The idea of putting a couple of lighter weight sweaters, blazers or layered jackets under a bigger statement coat with all lapels and edges visible. Very Balenciaga 2018. Do you dare to embrace this freehearted way of dressing?

Domed Brooches, Rhinestone Collars, Beaded Skirts & Statement Hats

She’s a performer and iconic: a caricature of an art deco burlesque dancer in the best sense. Calder titled her the “Exotic Dancer” of the circus and she has one of the most divine outfits. The details I take away:

• Midcentury domed rhinestone brooches (likely buttons). The quality and excessive nature feels new and now. I love how she wears them in supersized scale, doubled up and of course, the placement...

• She also has a matching collar necklace. Adding a huge, chunky, sparkling rhinestone necklace to an outfit is fantasy-inducing, even better if it matches said brooches. My favorites in my personal collection right now are by Weiss (vintage) and Area (new).

• There’s something ultra glamorous about a black maxi beaded skirt or sequin skirt kind of like the one she’s wearing, especially for daytime. I’d wear it with a band tee, cable knit sweater or turtleneck mesh top with the above accoutrements.

• Hair up, 1920s flapper cloche hat on. Notice how nearly all of Calder’s characters are wearing hats because people commonly didn’t leave the house without one in the era that he created this work (1926 - 1931). Authentic, antique hats like these are hard to find but worth the hunt and a definite outfit transformer.

Read more

As a fashion writer, I spend all year witnessing, documenting and making sense of what I see coming down the runway, what people are wearing on the streets and what’s happening online.

Following our tradition here on Doll Dealbook, Here’s what’s been on my mind lately as we enter a new year. Some trend theories or perhaps; glimmers of I think we’ll see more of in 2026.

1. The Rise of Vintage Sterling Silver

In March, I covered the ever rising cost of gold and the new wave of vintage sellers that came with it for Vogue. Yet sterling silver’s cost has more than doubled in 2025 alone ($30 per troy ounce in early 2025, surging to ~$70 per troy ounce by late December 2025) outperforming gold. One good thing: it’s still incredibly affordable compared to gold. Because of both of these points, I expect vintage sterling silver and, in tandem, silver toned jewelry to be one of the biggest trends of 2026. We also saw lots of silver toned jewelry on the SS26 runways at Margiela, Miu Miu, JPG and Valentino. Collina Strada even did a sterling silver jewelry collab with Awe Inspired.

2. Antique-ified Fashion

We’ve reached peak vintage fashion, and I see antique (defined as 100+ years old) as the next niche of the secondhand shopping journey. I reported on this briefly for Elle in June 2025. Designers including Anna Sui, Jonathan Anderson, Daniel Roseberry, Simone Rocha and so many others have cited antique silhouettes, movements or objects as inspiration in recent collections. Some of the most interesting stylists of our time, like Genesis Webb and Chloë Felopulos, are using real antique fashion in their styling work. It’s not about looking like you’re a historical reenactor. But mixing very special 100+ year old pieces into your wardrobe, like a 1920s piano shawl, Victorian snake necklace or beautiful Edwardian beaded bag feels really special. Antique jewelry is one of the easiest ways to tap into the trend.

3. An Explosion of Vintage Exotics (Python/Lizard/Feathers/etc.)

Fur is back—this we know. Which leads me to another controversial material in fashion: exotics—python, lizard, alligator, croc, feathers, etc. We’re at an interesting point because you can actually find a lot of these exotics for extremely fair prices on the vintage and secondhand market; so we’ll likely soon see a tipping point. Vintage exotics (to clarify, never new) may quickly become a major trend and prove to be more highly in demand in a world of ever increasing synthetics. Multiple fashion weeks have banned them and Chanel stopped producing exotics in 2018, making them more scarce and rare (and fashion loves controversy!).

4. The Aesthetics of Midcentury Excess

Rhinestones, swing coats, nipped waists, little statement hats and a dash of the return to the formality of the 1940s - 1950s feel right as we continue existing in a world full of turmoil. Think: a further move away from austerity and into dressing up for dressing up’s sake, but in a way that doesn’t take itself so seriously. August Barron (formerly All-In) spring 2026 was a great example. They used the feminine trope of the housewife in the 1950s and flipped it. It’s sheer excess, manufactured to make one feel something! We’ve already seen glimmers of it in the new Gucci era under Demna and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga and consistently under Alessandro Michele’s Valentino as well. The microtrends of pillbox hats, leopard print and vintage brooches we’ve been seeing signal something stronger.

5. Tassels Usurp Fringe

The next era of the boho fashion renaissance will be all about tassels. Dries Van Noten’s fall 2025 collection was an excellent example of this and Alaia spring 2026 also showed mega tassels on skirts, but the napoleon/military jacket craze also aligns with some very good shoulder tassels, in the form of epaulettes that dangle and sway off the shoulder. Fringe is great, but it’s been done to death. Tassels? They feel new, and they’re much harder to come by. Think: vintage jackets by Victor Costa trimmed with chunky tassels. I think this also could apply to home decor; your grandma’s giant curtain tassels never looked better.

6. Apron Dresses as an It-Girl Item

I love an apron dress. Call it a pinafore or whatever; it has legs. Miu Miu made it the focus of the spring 2026 collection, but the brand has experimented with that silhouette since its early days. A vintage little apron layered over a pair of jeans looks funny and cool. Vintage apron dresses for spring could have the appeal to feel so ironic and right. I have no doubt there will be major celebrity style moments happening with aprons and pinafores come spring/summer.

6. Octogenarian+ Style Icons

This is one of my favorite subjects that I’ve written about a lot dating all the way back to 2015. If the multiple, blow-out Iris Apfel estate sales in 2025 proved anything, it’s that there’s a clear demand and love for the iconic personal taste of the elder style set. These women have lived their lives and cultivated their aesthetics and it shows. I keep seeing TikTok edits of older eccentric women done by Gen Z. Also this: Embracing aging feels fresh and revolutionary in the age of all-things botox and fillers. My hope is that this is not just a trend but more of a lasting cultural shift in 2026.

7. Vintage Yohji Yamamoto Has Its Moment

Courtesy of the upcoming Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy series and the constant surge of archival fashion, vintage Yohji Yamamoto will continue to grow in popularity and have a major moment. The label hasn’t reached quite the stratospheric heights of say, vintage Margiela, in terms of pricing yet. CBK was a known collector of Yohji Yamamoto pieces. Style muses like model Paloma Elsesser have already professed their love for vintage pieces from the label. The all-black, ingenious silhouettes naturally lend themselves to occasion dressing for red carpets. Read my interview with the designer here.

8. Maximalist Shells on Clothing and Jewelry

This is sort of an evergreen spring/summer trend but I see it going to an entirely new degree of total excess. Think: the heavy seashell-encrusted corset from Dilara Findikoglu’s fall 2025 collection (Cate Blanchett wore it) and the mesmerizing George Troch mussel-covered shell jacket (worn by Tyla). Shells! A natural, textural surface decoration in a maximalist, subversive way rather than a simple, dainty adornment.

9. High Quality, Excessive Lace

Handmade, high quality lace (antique or vintage too) feels primed to have its moment in 2026. It’s one of the most incredibly decadent, feminine, special fabrics in existence. Tastemaker historians like Elena Kanagy-Loux are keeping the history alive by posting interesting, informative videos on the subject. Also: one of my favorite recent celebrity style moments was Chappell Roan’s custom lace McQueen dress and matching floral headpiece she wore to headline Corona Capital CDMX in November 2025. I could see brands like Simone Rocha or even Chanel going all in with an extreme focus on the handmade, ethereal quality of intricate, handmade lace and spotlighting it for 2026. It has the handmade feel we all crave in these times.

10. The Non-Boring Wrist Stack

An armful of Cartier Love bracelets feels boring and more of a signaling of wealth status projection than a true ethos of personal style. With gold at an all-time high and multiple publications proclaiming their love of vintage costume jewelry, I predict a return to expressive bracelet stylings of the mid 2010s. Think: mixing a vintage Kenneth Jay Lane animal bracelet with a lucite bangle, sterling silver cuff, and your most prized bracelets you’ve collected over the years. There’s an art to it but it’s also about not overthinking it. All different textures, sizes, colors and materials are what matters most.

11. The Lore of Vintage Department Stores

The concept of a great department store today feels totally foreign. If Saks can’t make it, who can? There was once a time when these iconic department stores were producing extremely stylish, high-quality pieces for their own in-house lines. You can find many of them secondhand now for great prices here, here and here. I predict a future longing and nostalgia for the old school department store (as it fades away from existence) as well as a discovery for vintage specifically from said department stores. The vintage furs from Neiman Marcus, in particular, are so great.

Read more

Clothing

Chantal Thomass Fall 1990 Feather Jacket

I was looking for a chunky vintage feathered jacket for a very long time. I already have a few lightweight marabou options, but I felt I needed one with more serious heft. Enter: this incredible vintage Chantal Thomass jacket with a black base and caramel, brown and white feathers. (I’m also obsessed with this polka dot one). The texture is unreal; and it can be worn off-the-shoulders or pulled forward for a chunkier look. It’s truly a piece of art. Chantal Thomass also did a Victoria’s Secret collab with feather-trimmed sweaters !

Miu Miu Fall 2000 Coat

I love stripes. This piece (same one here and here) has the benefit of having two different families of stripes in contrasting widths, with a statement collar and pockets. I don’t usually spring for black and brown together, but my first two best purchases are rare examples. Collecting old Miu Miu coats (1999 - 2018) has been key to my closet highlights for years, and I can already tell this is one of my new favorites. The cut is great, the condition is immaculate, and I got it heavily discounted so there’s a lot to love about this one. (I’m tempted to buy this dotted coat from the same collection).

Marni Matte Rhinestone Vest

Every once in a while, you come across a piece so different you’ve never seen anything else like it. Those treasures often become ultimate grails and you just may spend the rest of your life trying to recreate the feeling of finding them. I bought this Marni vest/shirt/dress for $55. It’s oversized, sheer, raw silk and covered in hand-sewn rhinestones organized in a geometric pattern, with matte tulle covering the crystals to give it a highly unique, surreal look and feel. There is absolutely nothing else like it anywhere else. I suspect it’s from the mid-2000s. I love pieces like this for layering—especially over funky t-shirts and printed dresses.

Accessories & Jewelry (perhaps my best buys!)

Read more

Highlights…

To warm you up, here are a few fashion month highlights I wrote about, plus some personal favorites…

• During Paris Fashion Week, there was an archive, Comme des Garçons auction in Paris and I went inside for Vogue (I also bought a few things, let me know if you want a little haul?).

• Matières Fécales is the new darling of fashion month, as they should be. Their PFW show (which I profiled them about) was absolutely groundbreaking, as was the casting. If you haven’t seen it already, check out the duo sharing their technique with me in Dover Street Market New York.

  

• Anna Sui released a new ‘90s theme book and I chatted with her about it—her work is always some of the strongest in the New York scene, but it doesn’t feel like she gets enough credit for it.

• NYFW isn’t dead. Here’s everything I thought about it.

• I briefly asked Jenna Ortega about what’s inspiring her lately and also got intel on her current playlist at Dior’s blowout lipstick bash at the David Lynch-designed club Silencio.

• My reviews: Miu Miu’s aprons felt like a throwback to the incredibly weird, 2010s look that was the pinnacle of the brand for me—Miuccia Prada has experimented with aprons since the 1990s and I love this interpretation, Duran Lantink’s new Jean Paul Gaultier (I loved it) was one of the most interesting moments of fashion month, Valentino went full vintage, Margiela got boring, Balenciaga felt destined to retain previous customers but looked pretty great, the jewelry at Saint Laurent was iconic, I loved Prada’s weird layering, I can’t wait to see more of Demna-era Gucci’s camp-y Italian drama.

• Roger Vivier opened up a huge new maison/archive in Paris and Inès de La Fressange curated an archive exhibition full of rare vintage shoes from my literal dreams—she has an encyclopedic knowledge of the brand and was friends with Vivier himself. The vintage bejeweled styles with historical inspired heels are so inspiring to me. You can visit the archives by making an appointment.

Personal favorites.

• The most shoppable, real world covetable collections for next season are Simone Rocha, Dries Van Noten, Sacai and August Barron (more on that in the emerging designers section). Special mentions also go to Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood which had some real gems—in particular the antique inspired bodices and sleeves, and Kiko Kostadinov’s cool hoods and knitted boots. If I buy anything next season, it would probably be from these collections. Though I’m also very interested to see the commercial interpretations of both Noir Kei Ninomiya and Junya Watanabe; permanent favorites for me.

  

  

  

  

  

and additionally…

• Town and Country asked me to report on the rise of the Green Screen Fashion Critic and the interesting dynamics at fashion week.

• Before fashion month kicked off, I asked the top retailers in the U.S. what their bestseller predictions were for the fall 2025 season for Vogue. Hint: beige!

• The influence of Old Prada is everywhere right now, especially on the runways and in the wardrobes of fashion insiders. I’ve always been a fan of Old Prada and have been collecting it for years secondhand and via the outlets, so naturally, I’m thrilled. I wrote about it for Elle.

Trend predictions…

Old Marni feels like the next big thing: Meryll Rogge closed fashion month and her show was outrageously good, riffing on genius little details like embellished mary-janes and chaotically good clashing colors. It’s easy to see why she’s taking over Marni and I’m so excited. Marni, pre-Francesco Rizzo, was one of those incredibly distinct, art-focused brands so clearly designed by a woman for women. It’s been one of my favorite under-the-radar brands to shop secondhand for years because it’s highly under-valued. I hope Rogge restores it to its former weird, handmade artistic glory but in the meantime I predict old Marni and its similar art teacher, intrinsically Italian aesthetic will rise in popularity.

Chartreuse: One of my favorite examples of impactful color this season was lush, sickly chartreuse. Valentino and Ulla Johnson both did it so well. It fits in with vintage silhouettes so perfectly and feels fresh and slightly disturbing while still maintaining its allure. I expect to see it become an it-color in the next few seasons.

Poetry is so back: Is poetry back? We already saw the rise of the literary it girl these last few years, but now fashion brands are obsessed with niche poetry. JPG promoted John Giorno’s infamous dial-a-phone live at the show and on its instagram for spring 2026. Elsewhere, Lana Del Rey read poetry for Zimmermann and Pam Anderson recorded a poetic-like reading of the Valentino show notes. There are so many other examples. It feels like poetry/spoken word arts is a huge rising trend. Poetic symbolism tends to thrive during times of conflict; I predict a major resurgence of poetry culturally.

A new culture of suit making: Two of the most exciting brands I love right now are doing something no one else is: creating really directional, unique pant and skirt suits for women. Both Matières Fécales and Willy Chavarria are doing it. Matières Fécales hand-distresses really cool, sharp-shouldered skirt suits (they sold out at Dover Street Market, according to the brand) and Willy Chavarria makes these very outsize, big power suits inspired by the lore of 80s icons like Claude Montana. I want to see more of a culture of designers making strong, powerful, directional attire like this for women. Thinking of the context of suits is also really interesting, especially at a time when employment is at a huge low. Will we see more creative, expressive suits that look really great? I think so. I would wear both.

Aesthetic Alienation: Kiko Kostandinov sent outfits down the runway that looked like they came out of a video game or fantasy world (The Legend of Zelda) or Star Trek. JPG looked very Fifth Element. Noir Kei Ninomiya as always, is on another planet. Even Balenciaga’s bug-eyeglasses (very early Pierre Cardin!) looked like they were ready for space. Miu Miu went back to the 1940s - 1970s with aprons and Valentino was super 1970s. Thom Browne presented literal aliens. Fashion is not in the present; designers are obsessed with transporting us to different worlds in our strange times, either those that are fictionalized or from the detached, unfamiliar past. We’re all alienated, so let’s alienate. Fashion will see more fantasy as it dips into stranger and more obscure worlds. No one wants to be here on Earth in the present anymore. Take us away.

Expressive darkness: Dilara Findikoglu, Collina Strada and Elena Velez among others all referenced the darkness of our current times which manifested in a new look that doesn’t shy away from bold, neo-gothic, otherworldly references (think: goths in the Dust Bowl) that have close ties to subcultures like emo, punk or grunge. Joy is boring. We’ll see more designers showcasing formerly taboo emotions.

Surreal Jewelry (and perfume collaborations): It’s impossible to count the brands that launched perfumes this season (Vaquera, Vivienne Westwood, Balenciaga, Miu Miu); it’s a literal sign of the economy. Brands are also creating oddly satisfying, unique runway jewelry collaborations like never before, but they’re actually super fun. Ashley Williams’s toilet paper roll bangles by YVMIN are one of my favorite examples. Collina Strada also created ring pop-like baubles and drippy, amorphous earrings with Awe Inspired that felt really special. More expressive jewelry will be all over the runway in the coming seasons.

Everything literally looks vintage: Would you rather buy a $5,000 Chloé floral dress that is a copy from the archives or the real thing for a fraction of the price? Some luxury shoppers haven’t caught on yet, but brands are literally rehashing the archives at breakneck speed like never before. Shopping secondhand has never been as mainstream as it has now, and that is definitely inspiring brands to pump out copies of the originals people are buying on The RealReal and at consignment shops. I’m not talking about taking light reference from archive styles, like Jonathan Anderson and the Dior Bar Jacket (I wrote about fashion obsessing over archives four years ago (!) for Elle), but rather things that, at first glance, could literally look like the real deal vintage, taking it one step further. Designers like Alessandro Michele are leaning more and more heavily into creating work that literally looks vintage. I adored Miu Miu’s aprons—I have a vintage floral paint smock from the 1970s that looks almost identical to one of the runway looks. This is one hardcore trend that isn’t going anywhere soon.

Emerging designers to watch…

Paris and New York bookended the season are both perpetually-known for their rising labels—one of my favorite elements of each new season fashion month.

Paris

The emerging designer scene in Paris right now is interesting. It feels like the same incredible, talented group of 5-7 names has gained more mainstream respect and recognition in a way that rising designers in New York still haven’t. Still, I would like to see more NEW, FRESH names on the calendar in the future. I absolutely love Jenny Fax’s unique vision of cool, weird girls with a fun, silly, bizarre Kawaii twist. This season felt office siren-coded. Julie Kegels continues to emerge as a very interesting label—especially loved her using big stickers as jewelry this season. De Pino is very cool and you can absolutely see the influence of 2010s Margiela SO MUCH—the designer used to work there. August Barron (formerly All-In) is another standout for me. So many cute, covetable pieces and great styling. The huge, monumental gowns at Caroline Hú were (and always are) insanely gorgeous and she always does the best sneaker collaborations. This season we saw ballerina mary-janes in shiny, delicate pinks, made with Adidas/CLOT inspired by Adidas Originals’ Taekwondo shoe.

New York

Add these names to your list, or follow them on Instagram if you don’t already.

• Dollar Store Couture (profile here) did its first show pre-fashion month and it was the most exciting thing I’ve seen in a long time. Designer Anja Cecilia makes work using Dollar Store finds and it’s so New York. Waiting to see which buzzy PR firm scoops her up for her next show; which I predict will bring her into the fold as one of the city’s most visionary new voices.

• You need to know Grace Ling who puts a focus on sculptural, minimalist tailoring and Tyler McGillivary who has an innate talent for making fun, wearable clothes for real world cool girls.

• Elsewhere, Vettese presented one of the most interesting and directional shows of the season, which melded Victorian sailor aesthetic with Y2K dance club culture.

• Melke presented another great collection utilizing creative upcycling and references to the midwest, featuring one incredibly iconic dress covered in antique fishing lures.

• Meruert Tolegan is a Kazakh designer that continues to pump out beautiful, ethereal tulle gowns and panniers worthy of a modern Marie Antoinette dream.

• Some of the pieces from Sandy Liang’s new collection (though she’s definitely no longer emerging, she’s still growing), like the doll clothes-covered dress, were the strongest looks she’s created in years.

• Tara Babylon’s prints and patterns are some of the most joyful things we saw.

• Dauphinette’s imaginative show was so dreamlike and fantasy-inducing, featuring a gown full of beetles and upycled sequined and beaded corsets that rivaled what one might see on a couture runway.

• Caroline Zimbalist is doing some of the greatest work in the industry with natural materials.

• Pipenco is what the fashion world needs right now, and has mastered storytelling and structural, exciting silhouettes that keep us on our toes.

What people actually wore…

One of my favorite things about fashion month is seeing what people actually wear out on the streets or inside the venues. I’ll be doing a newsletter breaking down some of my own fashion week outfits, very soon. In the meantime, here are a few things I noticed that I loved and would wear:

Extreme hats: Feathers, sequins, beads…nothing is too over-the-top. Gone are the days of simple bucket hats. We love drama.

1930s little French military/police hats: I know two different maximalist girls scooped up these vintage (almost antique) little block-like hats while in Paris and I also got my own version in gray. They really align with the 2010s military jackets that are also all over the runway.

Sequin maxi skirts: Or any long, dramatic skirt. I remember seeing several long sequined maxi skirts I coveted in bright shades of orange or green.

Pearls: They were everywhere, in the form of huge necklaces, bags, hats, brooches, even worn in the more traditional sense as bite-sized baby strands or as a single pendant.

Marc Jacobs era Louis Vuitton: A handful of fashion people are very into it right now, wearing the little jackets, blazers and dresses to shows.

Until next time dolls,

Kristen

P.S… Check out my books:

• Maximalist interiors

• New York style

• Tom Ford

• Miu Miu

• The Met Gala

• Zendaya

• Lady Gaga

Pre-order my upcoming book released in 2026… New York Style Icons.

BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3

Sunglasses are intoxicatingly transformational in a way that would draw anyone in. One moment, you’re eye to eye with someone who can so clearly read your expressions and see right through you. Next, you’re someone new. Someone impermeable. Or, maybe, someone you don’t even recognize yourself. A great pair of distinct sunglasses is a surefire way that less people speak to you on the street, especially in New York. Yet, at the same time they can convey anonymity and a strong sense of character at the same time. If the eyes are the window to the soul, sunglasses are the shield.

One great thing about the entire genre of sunglasses? The best ones can often be found secondhand or deeply discounted, if you’re willing to wait long enough or search hard enough. I learned my lesson fast when I paid full price for my first pair of designer Miu Miu glasses years ago and only months later, found them for a fraction of the price at Saks Off Fifth. If you’re a longtime reader of this newsletter or my work in general, you already know I love a good deal. But sunglasses are one of the easiest entry points for savings. (Your favorite designer brands are currently selling things for literally 95% off retail price at private sample sales this summer, but that’s a story for another time!)

These are the character-inducing sunglasses I’ll never give up, sorted by brand and style:

2010s Miu Miu

My very first love. One of my first ever designer purchases was the aforementioned pair of Miu Miu sunglasses. Framed in bright gold metal and shaped with a directional 1950s style cat eye with lucite pink arms, they were the epitome of a statement piece. Here they are in white for $100. I was so in love with them, and I still own them. Since then, I’ve collected so many Miu Miu sunglasses secondhand. The ultra-round ones from the mid 2010s are the best, rimmed in chunky glitter or framed with fat ‘70s style square lenses. But you can also find incredible, unique styles like these retro inspired gold frames for around $70 or these butterfly glasses for about $80. I consider 2010s Miu Miu sunglasses a wearable weird statement—good for beginners!

Read more

Brimfield is the shopping highlight of the year for me. The largest outdoor flea market in North America happens three times a year, but the best edition is in May. If you’re interested in a guide, I wrote one here. Endless fields in middle-of-nowhere Massachusetts are filled to the proverbial brim with rare antiques, junk, oddly satisfying old stuff and an ocean of jewelry from every era. Last year, I wrote about the jewelry I scooped up for Vogue. Every time I go, I end up buying a lot, simply because there are so many great pieces that can’t be found anywhere else. And also, buying in bulk also yields more discounts.

Below are ~40 pieces I decided to keep for my personal collection, along with the search terms I recommend in case you want to shop them at home. I’ve organized the list by most normal to progressively niche and deranged. And I’ve also included some caustic, unretouched photos that I didn’t have time to edit (working on two more books at the moment…) on my table with glue stains!

In case you missed it, I also listed some of my Brimfield finds for sale on Dollchunk Bazaar, the vintage section of my jewelry brand Dollchunk.

My official 2025 Brimfield Haul…

Massive, chunky sterling silver jewelry

I’ve been really into big, thick, weirdly good sterling silver jewelry. Not just the little bangles or small things. I’m talking: heavyweight masterpieces that are un-Google-able. I’ve been manifesting these kinds of pieces for a while because they’re quite hard to find, and when shopping online, sometimes sellers don’t list the weight (a crucial detail for these kinds of pieces). But I came across a couple of them at Brimfield, including one huge brutalist style collar with grapes (yes!) and another sculptural, face-like, tree-shaped ring. I’m still in the process of researching both but drop a comment if you know anything about either one of them.

This year, I also noticed a lot of vendors selling sterling jewelry by the weight ($1.70 - $2/ gram on average); I scooped up a pile of the vintage sterling bangles shown below. With gold at an all-time high, I didn’t think the prices were good for gold fine jewelry at Brimfield this year but silver is a great alternative and serves a different purpose than costume jewelry (which I obviously also love).

I also picked up a big filigree flower brooch. And a huge, hulking peridot ring mounted in a sculptural sterling basket-like setting. I love a comically large gemstone!!!!

Search terms: huge sterling collar, vintage studio sterling, vintage chunky sterling, huge sterling peridot ring

Read more

When I was a college student I bought one at Beacon’s Closet right next to my school (Parsons) for $75. I really couldn’t tell if it was authentic or not, but I loved it and wore it to shreds.

In terms of fashion history, one might just call the Yves Saint Laurent Arty Ring one of the most influential pieces of costume jewelry in the 21st century (so far, at least).

One of the most interesting things is how unmistakable it was during its era—all without a logo. Consider it the jewelry version of the Balenciaga City bag. It was that ubiquitous and coveted, and has the same kind of lasting appeal that I think will only increase. It originally retailed for $250, which made it more affordable than a designer bag or pair of shoes. It was the ultimate gateway entry into the brand. Multiple colors and limited edition options were released, which sold out instantly. Fashion insiders wore it in street style shots, but Kim Kardashian, Alexa Chung and Beyoncé also donned the wonderfully maximalist eccentric YSL Arty Ring. It’s had such a wide influence. In researching it, I came across multiple recent nostalgic tributes to it on Instagram.

Now, all these years later, seeing the YSL Arty ring on resale sites everywhere, I can’t help but notice how good it still looks. In April, I bought the necklace (pictured above—which is super hard to find). It’s the perfect combination of ultra thick, gilded gold plating with the chunky, splashy color of the big and tiny enameled and resin stones scattered throughout. The texture of the gold plating takes cues from 1960s - 1970s brutalist fine jewelry, and the ring itself is so large, it takes up ample finger space and makes a statement. Aesthetically, it looks a little bit like something Daniel Roseberry would do for Schiaparelli, without the price tag. (Most of the Arty rings secondhand are priced less than $200.) It’s also the opposite of the highly sanitized, personality-less mainstream jewelry that has been dominating luxury trends these past few years. Arty lives up to its name; it’s bulky, organic and a little bit weird.

The YSL Arty ring reportedly launched around 2009 - 2010, under creative director Stefano Pilati, and was discontinued in 2013. With Hedi Slimane joining the brand in 2012, it’s no surprise: the colorful, ultra-feminine, boho, maximalist piece was opposite of the alignment of Slimane’s look. Pilati often looked to more eccentric, global, historical references for his work. In a 2008 New York Times profile that I highly recommend reading, he buys the tribal Bedouin sandals that a random Moroccan man was wearing in the streets of Paris, directly off his feet, for inspiration, with the reporter present. Obviously, with Pilati’s history of working at Prada and Miu Miu pre his Yves Saint Laurent years, we have a soft spot for his aesthetic.

YSL has a unique and vast history when it comes to costume jewelry. The man himself once reportedly said, “I’d like to imagine that [costume] jewels are more spiritual than real rubies or diamonds,” in 1954. I also wouldn’t be surprised if Saint Laurent decided to re-release the Arty ring in the future. After all, this season’s earrings (I want them all, but especially the extremely oversized ones) heavily reference the label’s vintage styles. Current creative director Anthony Vaccarello loves taking inspiration from the brand’s archives and he does it in a really appealing way. The coin earrings in particular (below) are almost identical.

Left: YSL current season coin earrings. Right: YSL vintage earrings, OR stud version.

Here are my favorite Yves Saint Laurent Arty pieces to shop secondhand right now:

Read more

The annual event selects 50 different emerging and acclaimed jewelry artists from around the world to present in their shoppable pop-up exhibition, showcasing everything from sculptural chunky sterling silver bracelets to massive necklaces made out of recycled bottles and hand-painted miniatures with a victorian gothic vibe. And trust me, as someone who collects jewelry, it’s good. As someone who shops (and writes about) a lot of emerging brands, the craftsmanship of the majority of the brands showcased was also exceptional.

If you like weird and unusual jewelry that is huge, takes up space and has presence—this is for you.

Having lived in New York for over a decade, I’ve never seen so much interesting and inspiring jewelry from brands I’ve never heard of in one room. And prices ranged from about $50 to upwards of $12,000. The work reminded me of the kinds of pieces collected by iconic costume jewelry style icons of the past, like Diana Vreeland or Iris Apfel. Each piece truly felt so special, unique and so personal.

I took home this incredible hand-blown chunky Murano glass bracelet from Studio Vero Vetro in Tuscany. I love how big it is, and it reminds me of Grapefruit Brûlée. I wore it styled with my Dollchunk rings.

While this year’s MAD About Jewelry is over, here are just a few of my favorite new jewelry artists I discovered while there.

Read more

And yet, as I was searching the depths of the internet for comparable cat-shaped clutches I didn’t already own, I came across a bevy of decadent, delicious Judith Leiber crystal sleeping cat bags, produced in the 1980s - 1990s. To say I was mesmerized when I saw Judith Leiber’s spellbinding cat minaudières would be an understatement.

Lucky for me, a pink cat was heavily discounted on The Real Real and I had a site credit. She is perfect: covered in a metaphorical blanketed quilt of crystals arranged in shapes of flowers, clovers, peace signs, zig zags, stars and dated ‘Oct 26 1990’ on the back. Topped with a sculptural bow, she’s lined in buttery gold leather and comes with the label’s signature gold comb, mirror and coin purse. In my research, I wasn’t able to find any other Judith Leiber bags with dates, which leads me to believe mine was a custom piece, making it all the more special.

Thus began my obsession. I’ve since collected a few other vintage Judith Leiber keepsakes: a matching sleeping cat belt and two exotic skin bags with real semi-precious stones (onyx, lapis, quartz) all from the brand, each of which cost under $100 (!) secondhand.

But let’s take a moment to examine the influence and influx of Judith Leiber bags in our recent times. It’s impossible not to notice the rise of the minaudière in recent years, with JW Anderson, Valentino and Gucci all creating their own iconic, viral versions. They’ve always been around. But on a chilly Monday evening earlier this month, at Caviar Kaspia uptown, no less than three people carried glittering Judith Leiber clutches to Linda Fargo’s birthday party. June Ambrose had a little bird, Linda wore a heart, and I myself carried the aforementioned crystal cat bag. I think this unofficially signals the return of Judith Leiber as an object of fashion joy and a serious it-bag contender that speaks deeply to the label’s serious fashion history roots.

We need joy right now and crystal animal-shaped Judith Leiber minaudières certainly inspires that. And in a dark void dominated by male creative directors, I think it’s pretty powerful to carry a daring statement from one of the most iconic female founded accessory brands.

While new Judith Leiber bags are undoubtedly incredible, I have a soft spot for the vintage minaudières, which can also be found for as low as $500 (versus $5,000 for current season) if you know where to look and if you check frequently for discounts and sales. I especially adore the cats, which come in a striking array of patterns and colorways.

In honor of my new obsession, I also spoke with Ann Fristoe Stewart, director and curator of The Leiber Collection, the museum in East Hampton, New York open to the public. I wanted to get her insights on the vintage Judith Leiber market.

KB: What are some of the rarest vintage Judith Leiber bags?

AFS: Three of the rarest vintage bags are:

1. The Gerson Leiber inspired minaudière – Judith Leiber created handbags that were inspired by some of the modernist artists of her day that she admired, like Sonia Delaunay, Piet Mondrian, Georges Braque, and others, including her husband, Gerson Leiber. This minaudière was inspired by Gerson’s painting ‘The Much Admired’ from 1991, which Judith released in 1992. We searched for many years for this piece and never saw it offered for sale. It wasn’t until the marvelous Joanna Rose from NYC heard that Judith wished she had this bag and donated it to The Leiber Foundation that we could display the piece next to the painting that inspired it

2. The Judith Leiber x Faith Ringgold minaudières – these magnificent and rare minaudières were created as a collaboration between Judith Leiber and artist Faith Ringgold in the 1980s. These stunning pieces are inspired by the vibrant storytelling of Faith Ringgold’s powerful Story Quilts, ‘The Street’ (1985) and ‘The Purple Quilt’ (1986). Judith always wished these were in her collection, but we do not have them. We are actively seeking these two minaudières to add to The Leiber Collection. If anyone has them and would like to donate them to The Judith and Gerson Leiber Foundation, please contact Director Ann Fristoe Stewart at info@leibercollection.org.

3. The New York Skyline minaudière, featuring the Chrysler Building and the World Trade Center, is a cherished piece. It seldom appears at auction, and when it does, it is expensive. Joan Rivers owned one of these and proudly carried it to numerous NYC events and galas.

KB: What are some other interesting pieces from the brand that vintage collectors should look for?

AFS: Some of her most iconic minaudières…

The Tomato—When Judith Leiber designed her tomato minaudière, she was inspired by her vegetable garden at her country house in the East Hampton hamlet of Springs, on Long Island, NY. It was such a unique design that it captured the ladies' imaginations, and they became obsessed. It is a perfect example of her style of mixing sophistication and whimsy with a dose of humor. She always kept the ladies smiling!

The Swan – Judith’s Swan minaudière appeared in an episode of Sex and the City, and to this day, people ask about it when they come into the museum. It is one of Judith’s most iconic bags and a beloved representation of her design style.

The Peacock – Her peacock minaudière was her final design, created in 2004. As the peacock personifies grace and dignity, much like royalty, one cannot help but notice the brilliance of this choice as her final design.

KB: How can collectors identify a true vintage Judith Leiber piece?

AFS: There is a certain authenticity to the sound of opening or closing a vintage or classic Judith Leiber handbag. It has been equated to the sound of the opening or closing of a door of a very fine automobile.

Collectors should always consider the craftsmanship and the materials used. Judith Leiber always used the most extraordinary skins or fabrics in her designs, and always used Swarovski crystals because of their unique dazzling sparkle. Look for meticulous detailing and be mindful of the inside and the outside. The inside of a Judith Leiber handbag is perfection. It includes fine materials, impeccable stitching, and always Judith’s signature. When Judith sold her handbags, she always included a comb, a mirror, and a change purse.

KB: Are there any huge differences between the new pieces vs pieces dating from the '90s and earlier?

AFS: The company still honors Judith’s legacy and creates in her signature style where sophistication meets whimsy. She made bags of impeccable crafts-‘woman’-ship, and the company continues that superior mastery today.

The differences lie partly in the customer base. The company designs for different generations of fashionistas and pays attention to their interests and obsessions.

Where Judith was inspired by vegetables such as tomatoes, asparagus, and eggplants, the company now creates ice cream cones, pizza, french fries, and more. Judith drew inspiration from modern art, whereas the company now is influenced by contemporary artists and by Pop Art. Judith designed a classical cello, and they created a super fun electric guitar.

KB: Can you share any specific history about my vintage Judith Leiber cat bag?

AFS: This is a very beautiful Judith Leiber Sleeping Cat Minaudière. Judith originally designed this piece in 1983, but re-released it with different decorations over the years.

Yours is very unique as I have never seen a date on one of Judith’s designs. She personalized bags with the collector’s name, so I imagine she personalized this with a date of importance to its collector.

There are Roman Numerals on the Gerson Leiber inspired minaudieres, which represent the number it is in the series, which is also unique, but I have never seen the date on a piece. Interestingly, the decoration is reminiscent of a pug that Judith designed in 1990.

(editor’s note: a dog-shaped Judith Leiber is now at the top of my list…look at the chunky shape of this one on eBay!?)

KB: Anything else you want to add?

AFS: The beading of the bags began not as much of an artistic endeavor but as a matter of necessity. The plating on the first metal bag, the Chatelaine, was so severely flawed that Judy realized some disguise was required.

She decided that covering the bag with crystals would hide and enhance; thus, her entire beaded handbag business was born. Her handbags are not merely utilitarian but are beloved works of Art that are adored and collected by many.

Until next time dolls,

Kristen

P.S… Check out my books:

• Miu Miu (NEW!!!)

• Maximalist interiors

• New York style

• Tom Ford

• The Met Gala

• Zendaya

• And pre-order my Lady Gaga book out later this year!

BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3

Let your armscape enjoy carte blanche; the big bracelet is the art installation. You can wear more than one. But you only need at least one, on each wrist for ample impact.

Here are some of my favorite unexpected brands and links for big, bulky, eccentric bracelets:

The Affordable Thrill: Off Park

Off Park is a brand exclusively offered through “jewelry television” (how iconic). What I know about the label is that they were founded by a man named Tony and at one time or other, they made outsize over-the-top bracelets that can now usually be found for less than $100 secondhand.

Read more

My obsession started with a coat from said collection. Of pinstripes and blue faux fur and a perfectly study, stiff leather silhouette. I didn’t buy it. I regret it. I hope whoever did get it returns it.

Versace Fall 1998 is important for several reasons; but one of them being that it’s one of the first collections fully designed by Donatella Versace as chief creative officer, following the unfortunate murder of her brother Gianni in July 1997. She first became heavily involved in the creative direction of the brand in 1996, when Gianni had ear cancer.

It was a historic time for Versace. Just after Gianni’s death, prices of Versace from past seasons skyrocketed. Sotheby’s held a fashion auction (revolutionary at the time) less than 18 months after the designer passed, and the highest grossing item was a 1997 Versace cocktail dress in metal mesh, which went for £9,775. “Last year's designer clothes selling for three times their original price? This must then be the moment to turn out your closets, pass up the dress agency and go straight to the auction houses, where glamorous young shopaholics are mad for vintage clothes,” Suzy Menkes reported at the time.

Earlier this year, Donatella announced she’s stepping down from the brand and taking on the role of chief brand ambassador. Dario Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu fame, is taking over the reigns as new chief creative officer. There’s never been a better time than the present to look back at Versace’s Fall 1998 campaign. Beyond that, we all know fashion is obsessed with medieval times right now—and this is one of the best contemporary examples. The collection also, to me, feels divinely feminine and purely from a female point of view—something the runways desperately need more of right now. Shot by Steven Meisel, it starred Maggie Rizer, Guinevere Van Seenus, Carolyn Murphy and others in renaissance portrait mode.

These are the style lessons to take from the campaign:

Tissue thin t-shirts are ideal with chainmail.

Two things that are undoubtedly hard to style on their own, but look shockingly interesting together. Call it a study of contrasts. The perfectly soft, faded, worn-in tissue-thin long-sleeve tee with a chainmail piece (think: vest, sleeveless dress) thrown over it. Or, follow the styling of the campaign and wear a tissue-thin tee on TOP of chainmail armor. I actually like this idea a lot—an easier way to wear it would be with a long, wispy tunic or even a t-shirt dress with a little bit of the chainmail skirt peeking out.

I don’t like most t-shirts except: I really love the ultra-soft, washed feeling oversized ones from AllSaints like this, which I feel like would be perfect for layering chainmail over. There are also lots of great affordable chainmail pieces on Etsy right now.

You need copious amounts of antique jewelry.

This is a rule I already follow but it re-affirms my commitment to wearing 200+ year old portrait miniatures and mourning rings as well as antique jewelry in general. The jewelry inspiration in this campaign in simply endless. Special appreciation goes to the giant gothic cross pendants and the highly-detailed cuffs on each arm (a great rule to follow in general). More is more here, and layering statement making pieces is the religion. Each piece also takes up lots of space and has presence. No dainty chains allowed.

Pinstripes are a neutral.

My love for pinstripes is eternal. And in the world of vintage, there’s no one better than Versace when it comes to making the best of the best pinstripes. The aforementioned coat is what drew me to resurfacing this campaign, but look closely and under all the high turtlenecks, ancient jewelry and unique statement outerwear is a pair of pinstripe pants. On their own, they could very well be without an identity, but with the unexpected? A true maximalist’s best friend. And also usually incredibly affordable. Like this vintage Versace option for $38 (!!!!!!!), a vintage YSL blazer that’s priced at little under $100 (I have one that's almost identical), or this AMAZING affordable vintage Valentino suit (again, !!!!!). Pinstripes are truly underrated.

Trade the puff sleeve for a bell sleeve.

I indulge in a puff sleeve very often. It’s plays a big role in my Victorian child and woman spreading aesthetic sensibility and brands like Simone Rocha, Selkie and Cecilie Bahnsen have been delivering on it for a long, long time now. However, I’d like to make a case for the dramatic, full-blown bell sleeve as seen here. I remember I had a bell sleeve dress printed with an angel on it that I wore in elementary school and the one cool hippie teacher told me it was “sick.” I didn’t know what that meant at the time. But that memory has stuck with me for years. I’m not sure I’ve worn bell sleeves since. But I could see them making a huge resurgence in the next two years with fashion’s ongoing medieval fascination. Even better as a top tucked into a floor-length crushed velvet maxi skirt. Of course, Free People is really excelling in the bell sleeve territory right now.

Books are the accessory.

This campaign utilizes books to share its narrative throughout. But there’s also something incredibly soothing about adding a book to an outfit. There’s a reason why fashion shows keep having models carrying newspapers and books—that’s the biggest fantasy of all when we’re all staring at our phones, computers and TVs with the threat of AI hanging over every creative endeavor.

I like the idea of adding a book—or book shaped accessory at least—to an outfit. It’s tangential and less literal than in this campaign, but I’ve been thinking a lot about Prada’s fall 2016 notebook necklaces and bag charms (actual notebooks bound in detailed leather) as well as those affordable vintage magazine clutches and, of course, the infamous Olympia Le Tan book clutches. I still have the limited edition Hello Kitty one that I got at the Opening Ceremony sample sale years ago. Surprisingly, you can find it for close to $500 if you spend enough time looking.

Photos: Fashionspot/Scannedfashionworld

Subscribe now

Until next time dolls,

Kristen

P.S… Check out my books:

• Miu Miu (NEW!!!)

• Maximalist interiors

• New York style

• Tom Ford

• The Met Gala

• Zendaya

• And pre-order my Lady Gaga book out later this year!

BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3

One of my favorite parts of writing this book was exploring the totally intrepid duality of Ford, who often gets typecast as a minimalist but at heart, has his own wildly opulent and decadent maximalist moments that pull from his background as a Texan who has also lived in New Mexico and who idolizes the inimitable Lisa Eisner.

While much of his early work for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent may be considered tame compared to the Tom Ford aesthetic of today, Ford brought forward a new kind of out-there glamour that heavily riffed on 1970s style at a time when copious designer houses were focused on streamlined designs with little ornamentation and even less prints and colors.

What’s also important to understand about Ford’s work is his obsessive attention to detail, as well as just how hands on he gets. Take, for instance, the fact that in 2004, as the creative director of Gucci, he personally shaved a “G” into the pubic hair of model Carmen Kass (!) for an ad, adding definition with an eyebrow pencil.

I only own two Tom Fords piece in my wardrobe; both are bags. I bought the iconic one below as a present to myself after finishing the book. I wanted something that truly represented the unique lens of Tom Ford: the opposite of subtle and totally Tom Ford-ian.

Shocking, raw and deliciously crass, it’s the “Pussy Power” bag from fall 2018, also one of the first Tom Ford fashion shows I ever attended. The photo doesn’t do the glittery masterpiece justice.

In honor of my book release today, these are the five other Tom Ford archival pieces I would love to add to my wardrobe one day—from his work at Gucci, YSL and his namesake brand.

Sequined Molly Jersey, Tom Ford Fall 2014

There’s a best offer option available, on eBay, by the way.

I had this saved on my Real Real favorites and it kept getting more and more discounted until it sold for about $500. I regret not getting it. This legendary, underrated piece is key to the muse relationship between Ford, Beyoncé and Jay Z.

Beyoncé as a muse stemmed from Ford’s friendship with her husband, Jay-Z, who was one of Ford’s first, most devoted menswear customers when the brand launched. Did you know Beyoncé also walked as a model in his debut womenswear show for his namesake line?

Jay-Z and Tom Ford were so inspired by each other, in fact, that Jay-Z’s 2013 album Magna Carta Holy Grail dedicated an entire track to Ford on the album, repeatedly rapping his name in the chorus: “I don’t pop molly, I rock Tom Ford”. Ford was so inspired by the song he wanted to create a piece that would have icon status. What came next was a sequined dress referencing the jersey Jay-Z wore while performing the song. The word “Molly” crossed out beneath the number and a Tom Ford logo added. It was shown on the runway and worn by Beyoncé when she performed in 2014.

Pink Breastplate, Tom Ford Spring 2020

Read more

Put your little slip dresses and slinky bodycon pieces away and instead embrace all things big, bold, and a little bit weird. Fashion has become extreme again. With bizarre, bulbous silhouettes that maybe make you look like you are floating (or, at the very least, like you inhabit a different universe with a non-humanoid form). Who needs AI and digital avatars to shape shift when you can wear a puff sleeve dress that’s so large it prevents people from sitting down next to you? Or maybe, a dress so wide you have to turn sideways when going through narrow hallways. It could also just be a bow.

Why don’t you…stuff a tulle coat full of fake flowers so grand that the stems stick out and poke everyone who gets the least bit close to you…

We must reclaim our space through clothing. Let this summer be the time to indulge going forward.

How to woman spread:

Puff Dresses

This is one of the easiest ways to dress big. There are a few brands I gravitate towards—Vaquera, Cecilie Bahnsen, Simone Rocha, Taylor Dorry, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Selkie. Sister Jane also has some slightly more affordable options. Think: big, puffy layers, massive sleeves and chunky layers of tulle.

I’m a big fan of this massive white Simone Rocha mini dress, it’s quite blob-like. There are also a few of the Vaquera party style dresses discounted on The Real Real right now. After the recent sample sale, I now have four of these in my closet (in different colorsways/materials)! It’s one of the original woman spreading dresses.

Enormous Skirts

This is the tangiential sister to the big puff dress. One I’ve been very into lately. I think Comme des Garçons is, and always will be, king of this. But any tulle skirt will do, and anything with lots of fabric also works well. Add a petticoat or crinoline underneath to increase the volume. Wear them with literally anything. A t-shirt. Sweater. Tank top. It's instant accented formality without the high lift.

Free People has been steadily pumping out big tulle skirts made of dreams (below) but there are also so many great CDG gems discounted right now, like the black puffball skirt below.

Hats and Tiaras

Hats are one of fall 2024’s biggest trends, but this is something we’ve been working up to for quite some time. Statement hats have been dominating street style main character wardrobes for years, and those who know know, a hat immediately increases the chaotic good energy of an outfit.

I love a good vintage hat. Especially a sequin one, or a vintage tiara a la Chappell Roan.

I implore you to find not just vintage tiaras, but antique ones, like this 100+ year one for just over $100. For summer, a quirky vintage straw hat is your best bet. There are so many different options to suit your vibe, in particular, I’m into the realm of this niche 1980s Christian Lacroix sculpted hat.

Subverted Forms

I really believe we will see more and more forms of body modification in fashion—through panniers, bustles, corsets and other pieces that can easily be sourced and worn under your outfits to re-shape them. We’ve seen it recently with Margiela’s couture collection and Shayne Oliver’s Jean Paul Gaultier collaboration.

For the bold only, I reccomend the latter, one of the JPG dresses which has built-in, removable butt and hip pads. I recently wore the green version over a vintage slip dress and matching robe. I think it’s so fun and shocking to layer over and under different pieces. (More on that later in a subsequent newsletter…) But for an affordable play on the look, simply buy a $20 bustle from amazon and add it to one of your existing pieces.

Platform Shoes

I have felt the targeted wrath against platform shoes as of late, as if the narrow, skinny vintage-looking heels everyone has suddenly switched to are holier than thou. And yet, platforms will always be there for me. They give you height, stability and take up space without compromising.

Some of my absolute favorite platforms of all time (Noir Kei Ninomiya x Repetto) are currently discounted. These ~$60 Delia*s platforms in bright cherry red also really speak to me.

Another recent favorite: the Vivienne Westwood Rocking Horse ballerina platforms in limited edition pink!!! You can only get them by ordering through Vivienne Westwood World’s End. But you can also order the white or black ones from the website.

Until next time dolls,

Kristen

P.S… Next month my first interiors book is out next month, all about maximalism. It covers the history of maximalist interiors and gives you tips on how to transform your own space.

+ I wrote a book on New York fashion, which was recently released! Order it here. My other book is all about the Met Gala. Order it here.

BTW. I use affiliate links where possible, which means I may get a small commission from things you buy. Thanks for your support. <3

Subscribe now

related reading on woman spreading:

I know it, you know it. 2004 was the best year for bags. Maybe for music too. But in particular, this year in cultural history deeply thrills a part of my fashion loving soul. Feeds me, even. I could solely focus on just one brand that did incredibly iconic bags in 2004, but that would be pointless because there are so, so many enchanting objects that feed the fantasy of this hyper-specific era of 2004.

Admittedly, what got me thinking about this was Dior’s pre-fall 2024 collection which was just shown at the Brooklyn museum. Admist the sea of beige and black wearability were a couple of Saddle bags reminiscent of the early 2000s John Galliano bags that live on in a certain kind of epic fashion legacy. Dior is bringing back the newspaper Saddle bag (2001) as well as an American flag printed one (extremely camp). But I want to see more in the vein of Dior’s 2004 bags. They have always been some of my favorites, especially this tattoo style Saddle bag from 2004 I snagged pre-pandemic for an insane price.

Another all time favorite of mine are the Dior leopard print bowler bags with the oversized Dice charms from spring 2004. I have the classic brown and red colorway but I really want the pink and purple one. Galliano was inspired by the illustrative Vogue covers from the 1900s, Edwardian grandeur and the teddy boy subcultural pivot of the 1950s. But deep within that collection, colors and prints screamed with personality and esoteric references: Poiret! Punk! Elvis! Flappers!

Beyond the saddle: these are the other (also, more affordable!) designer bags from 2004 that still have a hold on me:

Read more

In Sofia Coppola’s first short film Lick the Star (1998), the protagonist-turned-antagonist popular girl wears a huge crystal tiara with a button-down starched Ralph Lauren shirt and thick lace midi skirt. Dark lipstick. Hair braided on both sides of her head. Matching crystal necklace and earring set that looks as if it was pulled from the back room of an antique shop or a wealthy grandmother’s neatly organized drawer. Mature cigarette flicking off in hand, off-set by saccharine layered plastic bracelets on the same wrist. Flat, sturdy leopard print bag, swinging tote bag and little Mary Jane ballerinas. Queen of Cool.

The tiara says so much while doing so little. When did we stop wearing them? Some of the greatest icons of our time (read: not royals) used to wear them.

Think: Courtney Love, Paris Hilton, Audrey Kitching, Naomi Campbell and Vivienne Westwood. I have a feeling the tiara is coming back. Even if it’s not, we should collectively bring it back. Let it not be for drab royals and dusty debutantes, but for everyone under the sun. We should be wearing them on the dimly lit subway, by the concrete poolside and in grocery stores… why not wear them to work, if you have a traditional office job? With the Met Gala coming up next month, I also expect (hope) to see some tiaras on the red carpet done in unusual and stylized ways.

Paris Hilton told Glamour of her tiara obsession in 2017, “I’ve been wearing tiaras my whole life. I think I was born with one on. I love being feminine and sparkly and confident, and when you wear a tiara, you feel even more that way. You feel like a princess. I see so many people wearing them now, but back then, no one wore tiaras. I’d go to [cult New York City stores] Patricia Field and Hotel Venus or other random little places by myself or with my sister and find these really cool pieces. I didn’t even have a stylist; I just wore what I loved. I probably have over 200. I keep them in these glass crystal cases with the light coming in. When I was in that Tink-Barbie stage, I wore them all the time, but I’ve evolved in the past few years. The look’s no longer about that little tiara I used to wear. It’s more like a crown or a headband that looks like a tiara. And now it’s only for special occasions, like a birthday, New Year’s, a wedding, a rave maybe. Coachella. But I would definitely say that you shouldn’t wear a tiara to a funeral. That would be very inappropriate.”

Earlier this year, I couldn’t get the original Tarina Tarantino Hello Kitty tiara out of my mind. So much so that I made a video charting it and the brand’s mini history. And then, earlier this month, the brand collaborated with Marc Jacobs to create a one-off edition of the fabled accessory (which sold out within the first three minutes of launching). Tarina Tarantino’s crystal kitsch tiaras are exactly the kind of tiaras I want to see out and about.

But it’s also important to remember my favorite kinds of tiaras for daily wear. Simone Rocha and Miu Miu have been fueling the tiara discourse and aesthetic since the mid 2010s. These are a few of my favorite things. I’m partial to Miu Miu’s spring 2016 collection which will forever be drilled into my mind. It’s the glam rock moodiness, the tortured ballerina, the emo scene queen who is high on high fashion of it all.

Almost every single model wore shiny plastic geometric tiaras alongside gingham checks, fur stoles and sheer layers, their lips painted like dark voids. Miuccia Prada said the show was about, “irrationality,” adding, “The times we are in are extreme. There’s conservatism on both the right and left in politics. And then, people look for escapes from it, attracted to strange religious beliefs or underground clubs and music.” Most of these runway collections that include tiaras riff off the Kinderwhore aesthetic of the late ‘80s and ‘90s, combining girlish subversion with punk and grunge subcultures.

Another great Tiara moment was Miu Miu Resort 2012, which was released as a lookbook rather than shown as a runway show. The imagery had a vibe of excess and opulence, with crystal flower tiaras, matching necklaces, earrings and rings piled together with mesh gloves.

I will also never forget the vivid dreamlike Tiaras by Meadham Kirchhoff. There’s been so many other countless iconic tiara moments in fashion… Saint Laurent’s spring 2016 grunge goddesses. Naomi Campbell for Christian Dior Haute Couture fall 2007. And Heatherette forever.

The tiara also feels in total, stark opposition of 2023’s obsession with flat, stretchy headbands, and that’s why I think they’re going to come back in full force soon. Heading into a recession and economic collapse, it’s the kind of irony I fully support, and history repeats itself with extravagantly wild clothing in times of uncertainty.

In 2016, Fashionista asked the very valid question of, “can you wear a fashion tiara without feeling like an asshole?” It depends on who you ask, really, but so long as you play with contrasts and make it more messy and weird and less prim and polished, I think it works.

Maybe, a tiara in today’s world has no deeper meaning than a headband. Royals exist but they’re fading, and even the modern debutante ball has been reimagined into something akin to a fashion show rather than a stately, marry-them-off event. The funny thing is, both times I wore tiara-like headbands, here in New York in August and in Paris in March, people at restaurants automatically assumed it was my birthday and gave me a celebratory free cake with a candle to blow out, without even asking to confirm. How funny is that? Is there any other accessory that has that kind of effect? I don’t think so. Call it the tiara effect.

Vintage and new tiaras to wear and cherish right now…

Read more

Pure ‘80s wonders: An idyllic cardigan I wear in place of a light jacket and an amusing sweater vest/tank top.

I actually found this one in Palm Beach which makes it even better.

Read more